Day 88 - End of the Road

Day 88 - Sunday, July 22
Trough Creek (1,486.8) to Interstate 5 (1,506.5)
Miles today - 19.7

My time on the PCT officially came to an end this afternoon after doing a quick 20 miles by 1 pm and hitting the 1,500 mile mark along the way.



Then it was a hot and painful two mile road walk to the town of Castella, where I celebrated the end of my journey with a cold beer.



Bronco's parents drove down from Oregon and picked us up, and then dropped me off in Dunsmuir a few miles up I-5, where I'll be catching the Amtrak in the middle of the night. I decided to get a motel room so I could take a shower and have somewhere comfortable to hang out. Unfortunately the laundrymat in town was closed, so I had to hand wash my clothes in the sink. My shirt is still dirt brown and makes me look like a bum, but at least it smells somewhat clean now. I went out for pizza, bought some deodorant, and then watched TV for the rest of the night until it was time to catch my train. I'll miss the PCT, but I'm excited to get home and see everyone.

Day 87 - Final Sunset

Day 87 - Saturday, July 21
Dirt road (1,463) to Trough Creek (1,486.8)
Miles today - 23.8

It was another long day, this time there were no views of any kind. Just forest walking and dodging poison oak, which was everywhere along the trail. I can see why people say Section O (Burney Falls to I-5) is the least interesting and most tedious section on the trail.



Bronco and I hiked with Data for most of the day. I've seen him occasionally since the first week, but this was the first time hiking with him. He's done the PCT and Colorado Trail before, so we had a lot to talk about. He's always really positive and enthusiastic about everything, so it was fun to hike with him. Seeing all the other hikers that I've gotten to know over the past three months is definitely what I'll miss most when this trip is over. I'll also miss camping. This is my last night on the trail. I do look forward to sleeping in my bed again though!

Day 86 - Accepting Fate

Day 86 - Friday, July 20
Peavine Creek (1,437.3) to dirt road (1,463)
Miles today - 25.7

Today felt really long. Maybe because I'm anticipating going home in a few days. Or maybe it's because this section of the trail isn't great. It's overgrown in some spots, sometimes requiring me to push through thick brush. And other than the occasional view of Shasta there hasn't been much to look at. Shasta is incredible though, so it kind of makes up for the boring bits.



My back felt better yesterday after the day of rest, but it hurt for most of the day today. It's not bad enough to keep me from being able to do 25+ mile days though, so sometimes I wonder if I'm just using it as an excuse to go home. I always told myself I would never quit unless I was physically unable to walk or if there was some kind of family tragedy back home. But it's one thing to say that from the comfort of home before the trip. It's another thing to be out here trying to tolerate the pain day in and day out. It's made every day, every mile, feel like a grind, and it's just not enjoyable anymore.

I got cell service during one of our breaks this afternoon and I made the mistake of checking Facebook and seeing all the messages of support left by friends and family after hearing that I'm ending my hike. I certainly appreciate the support and it feels good knowing that so many people were cheering for me, but I can't help but feel like I've let them all down, even if I know that isn't the case. As I hiked on with these thoughts racing through my head I became so overwhelmed that I almost had to stop and sit down. I feel so much pressure to continue, mostly from myself and not wanting to fail, but I know I'm making the right decision.



Above: Camping right on a dirt road, the flattest spot we could find.

Day 85 - What is This? Rain?

Day 85 - Thursday, July 19
Burney (1,415.7) to Peavine Creek (1,437.3)
Miles today - 21.6

Bronco and I got a ride back to the trail this morning from a guy who hiked it in the early 70's. Back then there wasn't a continuous trail yet, so he had to piece together his own route using maps. There wasn't ultralight gear, cellphones, internet or all the other planning resources we have today either. It was a much more hardcore adventure. But he said even back then there was help from trail angels.



Something strange happened today. I rained! Not for long, maybe a couple minutes, but it's the first precipitation in over a month. I wouldn't have minded a little more rain, at least enough to get the ground wet. The trail is so dusty that my feet and legs get covered in dirt every day.

Day 84 - Zero in Burney

Day 84 - Wednesday, July 18
Burney (1,415.7)
Miles today - 0

I think today was the first time on this entire trip that I got to sit around and do nothing all day. I left the motel room three times - for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Otherwise I was laying in bed watching TV. For once there was no grocery shopping or other chores to do. It was exactly the kind of zero day I wanted, and what my body needs. I could probably use several more days like this.

Even with a day of recovery I've decided to end my journey in four days when I reach I-5. From there I'll get a train home from Dunsmuir. I don't think I have two more months left in me physically and I just don't have the desire to keep going.

Day 83 - Needing a Break

Day 83 - Tuesday, July 17
Hat Creek Rim (1,388.9) to Burney (1,415.7)
Miles today - 26.8

We crossed the rest of Hat Creek Rim this morning while it was still cool.



Thankfully a water cache broke up the long dry section. Once off the rim we stopped for lunch along the side of a road. A car pulled over and the woman offered us water and a ride to the town of Cassel. We declined the ride, but happily took the water. It's not very often that people will go out of their way to help total strangers without even being asked.



Above: Mt Shasta in the early morning.

Bronco and I are both tired and hurting, so when we got to Hwy 299 we decided to hitch into Burney to eat and rest up. It's been a while since our last zero day, so we're going to hang out here all day tomorrow.



One of the things I love about hiking with Bronco is that he loves to eat as much as I do. I suppose most most thruhikers obsess over food, but Bronco never needs to be convinced to go eat like some of the other people I've hung out with in towns. He's always ready to put away massive amounts of food. The waitress at dinner tonight was in shock by how much we ate.

Day 82 - Hat Creek Rim

Day 82 - Monday, July 16
Badger Flat (1,367.8) to Hat Creek Rim (1,388.9)
Miles today - 21.1

A deer wandered into our camp in the middle of the night and wouldn't go away. It was just feet from our tents for a couple hours licking up the salt from our urine.

The trail this morning was almost all flat or downhill, so it was easy walking for 10 miles to the tiny town of Old Station, where Bronco had to pick up a resupply box. We hung out outside the small store for almost five hours with a bunch of other hikers to wait out the midday heat. Plenty of time for a burger and milkshake.



Above: The side of the store turned into a backpack parking lot.

It didn't get as hot as we were expecting, so we hiked out in the early afternoon instead of waiting a couple more hours. We're hiking along the Hat Creek Rim, which is supposed to be one of the hottest and driest sections on the entire trail, exposed and waterless for 30 miles.



We were lucky to have cool, windy weather. It even looked like we might get hit by a storm, but the dark clouds passed right by. It's been over a month without rain now. Through all the clouds and smoke from a distant fire we got our first view of Mount Shasta. It's still pretty far away, but it already looks huge. We'll probably be able to see it for the rest of California.

I read on Just Retired's blog (hiking-the-pct.com) today that he's gone home and will try to finish the trail next year. I met him on the last mile of the very first day as we hiked in to Kickoff together, and I enjoyed hiking with him for several hundred miles with the Usual Suspects. I wish him the best.

Day 81 - Drakesbad

Day 81 - Sunday, July 15
North Fork Feather River (1,344.5) to Badger Flat (1,367.8)
Miles today - 23.3

Today we entered Lassen Volcanic National Park. It has some of the same features as Yellowstone, like geysers and boiling lakes, but on a smaller scale.



Above: Terminal Geyser, just a short walk from the PCT.

It's one of the smallest and least visited national parks.

I got to Drakesbad Guest Ranch, which is inside the park, a little after 9 am. I just missed breakfast. Bronco got there 15 minutes earlier and got the last scraps. I got a free shower and they did our laundry while we waited for lunch. It was a long wait since they wouldn't serve hikers until after the guests were done. Finally after 1 pm they brought out barely enough food and soda to go around for the dozen or so hikers that were there. It wasn't worth the four hours I waited for something to eat, and the manager wasn't very friendly towards hikers either. I appreciate the free shower and laundry, but overall Drakesbad was a disappointing experience after all the good things I had heard about it.



Above: Boiling Springs Lake

I feel like I'm wearing out physically. My back has been hurting a bit recently. The terrain has been easy the last few days and we haven't been doing big miles, so I don't know what the problem is. I guess it's just wear and tear from hiking every day for so long.

Day 80 - Food Coma

Day 80 - Saturday, July 14
N of midpoint (1,327.5) to N Fork Feather River (1,344.5)
Miles today - 17

When Bronco and I got to Hwy 36 this morning we made a spontaneous decision to go into the town of Chester for a big breakfast to celebrate reaching the halfway point. Neither of us had planned to go into Chester, but the thought of food was too great to pass up. Plus there was the number of a local trail angel posted at the trailhead to call for a ride. So we called and 30 minutes later a woman known as Piper's Mom showed up and took us into town.

For breakfast I had two massive pancakes, two eggs, and bacon.



Then we walked down the road and stopped for three tacos and a milkshake. That was as much food as we could handle so we hitched back to the trail. It was a successful trip to town.



Above: Riding in the back of a truck. Don't try this at home, kids.

We stopped to camp pretty early, but it shouldn't be too hard to make up the miles over the next few days to stay on schedule. It's nice not feeling like we're in a big hurry.



Above: Getting close to Mt Lassen. We've been seeing it for about a week now.

Day 79 - Halfway to Canada!

Day 79 - Friday, July 13
Frog Spring (1,304.2) to N of midpoint (1,327.5)
Miles today - 23.3

Macho and I didn't know where Bronco and Fairway ended up last night, but it turns out they were just a mile behind us. They passed our camp at 6 am just as we were getting ready to leave.

Northern California is starting to make me feel like I'm back in the desert a little bit with the heat and some dry stretches where I need to carry more water. At least there are plenty of trees here, and the scenery isn't bad either. For the past few days we've had views of Mt Lassen to the north. It's an active volcano that we'll be hiking around in the next couple days. It's been cool to see it get bigger and bigger the closer we get.



Above: Lassen in the distance.

There was some disagreement today over our plans for this section and how many miles we should be doing. I tried to stay out of it as much as possible. Bronco and I don't feel the need to do big days. We'll still get to Oregon before our target date of August 1st if we just average 23 miles per day, and that allows for a couple zero days. Macho and Fairway chose to go further today. Hopefully the group isn't going to split.

On the plus side, I passed the halfway point today! I can't believe I have to walk this same distance over again, but it gives me confidence knowing there's less trail in front of me than behind me. I think the second half will be exciting. I'm really looking forward to Oregon and Washington, if I ever get there. California seems to go on forever!



Above: The halfway monument was pretty underwhelming. But it was still exciting to get there!

Day 78 - Blazing Belden

Day 78 - Thursday, July 12
Clear Creek Spring (1,278.2) to Frog Spring (1,304.2)
Miles today - 26
The trail dropped steeply 5,000 feet to the bottom of a canyon and into the weird town of Belden. There wasn't much more than a small store and a restaurant, where we had breakfast. The town was getting ready for a huge rave tomorrow with around 2,000 people expected. Supposedly these raves happen all the time and the music can be heard from the trail over 10 miles away. I'm glad I'll be long gone by tomorrow.

Above: Hikers taking over Belden.
I picked up my resupply box and a new pair of shoes from the post office, and after hanging out there for a while Macho and I hit the trail again.
It was really hot in Belden with temps in the upper 90's, and we had a 5,000 foot climb back out of the canyon. The lower slopes were exposed to the sun and it wasn't long before we had to take a break in a small patch of shade to cool off. The rest of the climb was steep and seemed to go on forever and we didn't find a place to camp with water until after 7 pm. There's a deer roaming around camp. No matter how many times we scare it off it keeps coming back. We suspect this deer doesn't stand a chance come hunting season. There are also so many mosquitoes buzzing outside my tent it sounds like a NASCAR race.

We aren't sure where Bronco and Fairway are, if they left town before or after we did. We think we saw Fairway's shoe prints, so he's probably ahead. They weren't planning to hike this far out of town though. I'm sure we'll find them sooner or later.

Day 77 - Detour for Food

Day 77 - Wednesday, July 11
Bear Creek (1,254) to Clear Creek Spring (1,278.2)
Miles today - 24.2 + 2.2 = 26.4

Today was mostly uphill as we regained all of the elevation that we lost yesterday, about 4,500 feet of climbing. Even with all the climbing, we're still doing 3 mph or better now that we're in such good shape.



We took a detour to Bucks Lake, which added a couple miles to our day, but it was worth it. First we stopped at a store where I bought some donuts and chocolate milk, and a little further down the road we hit up the Lakeshore Resort for burgers, beer, and ice cream.


Above: This is why I don't take many group shots. They won't look at the camera for more than two seconds!

Then we relaxed on the beach for a while before moving on.



By the end of the day I was pretty beat and was happy to make it to camp. So far the nights in northern California have been too warm for my sleeping bag. Hopefully tonight will be cooler since we're up a little higher.

Day 76 - Cruising

Day 76 - Tuesday, July 10
Spring (1,232.1) to Bear Creek (1,254)
Miles today - 21.9
We were out of camp at 5:40 this morning and had 19 miles done before noon. The trail is soft here with few rocks, so it's perfect for making fast miles. Plus it was mostly downhill today. We descended 2,000 feet to the Feather River where there was a nice swimming hole. The water was too cold for me to swim (others did), but it did make for a good lunch spot.

We only went a few miles after lunch and decided to stop when we found a campsite near a creek that was too good to pass up. Another easy day.
I've been hiking with Bronco, Macho Taco, and Fairway for most of the last 1,000 miles. You better like the people you're hiking with, because you spend a lot of time with them. It's kind of like working (hiking) AND living (camping) together. Needless to say we've gotten to know each other pretty well.

Day 75 - Short Day

Day 75 - Monday, July 9
Summit Lake (1,211.3) to spring (1,232.1)
Miles today - 20.8

Today was a short day. Seems weird calling a 20+ mile day short, but we've gotten used to doing more. We were at camp around 2 pm and had a lot of time to relax.



Even after an easy day I'm still tired and my feet are sore. I'm looking forward to getting a new pair of shoes in a few days. This pair wore out a lot faster than my first pair because of the ruggedness of the Sierra.



Our pace for this section is determined by the Belden post office hours. We all have boxes to pick up there and it would be hard to get there in time on Wednesday, so we're shooting for Thursday morning.

Day 74 - Racing Darkness

Day 74 - Sunday, July 8
Sierra City (1,197.5) to Summit Lake (1,211.3)
Miles today - 13.8

Breakfast this morning at Red Moose Inn was all-you-can-eat pancakes with bacon and coffee (I've never been much of a coffee drinker before this trip), and I got to watch some of the Wimbledon mens final while I ate.



Then I went over to the store for resupply. It had been picked clean by other hikers and a lot of the food I usually get wasn't there, but I didn't have much trouble finding more than enough for the next few days. Can't be picky at these small stores. I'll be eating a lot of Ramen, Doritos, cookies, and candy.



We were originally going to spend all day in town and leave early tomorrow, but Bronco, Fairway, Macho, and I decided to head out this afternoon. We left at 4 pm and finally got to camp just as total darkness was setting in.



We did over 15 miles (if you count the road walk back to the trail) in about five hours, and there was a 3,000 foot climb right out of town. We were flying.

Day 73 - 30 Miler

Day 73 - Saturday, July 7
North Creek (1,166.3) to Sierra City (1,197.5)
Miles today - 31.2

The landscape is changing again now that we're getting to the northern part of the state. The mountains are lower, more rounded, and more forested. It's hotter too since we're at much lower elevations, but the hiking is quite a bit easier.



Macho and I had 15 miles done at lunch. We weren't planning to get to Sierra City today, but it was only another 16 miles away and it was a little after noon. We had about six hours to get to town before the store closed and we decided to go for it.



It was my first 30+ mile day and we were in town before 6 pm.



Sierra City isn't much of a city. There's about 250 residents and a really short main street. I got a burger and a pint of Ben & Jerry's from the store. The Red Moose Inn allows hikers to camp in the backyard for free, and offers free showers, laundry, and WiFi, so that's where everybody stays. Bronco and Fairway got here earlier today, and there's a bunch of other hikers here, some who I haven't seen in two months, and some who I've never met.

I got to meet the legendary Billy Goat. He's been on the trail something like 11 years in a row and has logged over 25,000 miles. He was really friendly and interesting to talk to.



It's really hot here and it'll probably be hard to sleep. I'm not even in my bag yet and I'm sweating.

Day 72 - Crash

Day 72 - Friday, July 6
Squaw Creek (1,142.9) to North Creek (1,166.3)
Miles today - 23.4

There were a ton of tourists and day hikers on the trail in the Donner Pass area. It felt like we were stepping off the trail every couple minutes to let people pass. Some of them were really excited to talk to us and couldn't believe where we've come from and where we're going. One woman was thrilled just to finally meet some thruhikers, and another said we're her heroes. We're celebrities out here.



There was a bit of trail magic today. We passed a day hiker who said he left a cooler of beer next to his car for thruhikers. Sure enough it was there. I was hoping for a sugary soda, but I won't complain about a cold beer!



Above: Fairway and I enjoying our beer!

I took a spill as I was crossing a small stream on some rocks. My foot slipped and I went crashing down onto the rocks. My foot got a little wet and my knee and elbow got minor scrapes. I was lucky it wasn't more serious.



I think we're officially out of the Sierra now. Time to take on northern California!

Day 71 - Around the Lake

Day 71 - Thursday, July 5
Phipps Creek (1,114.6) to Squaw Creek (1,142.9)
Miles today - 28.3
The terrain was easy for most of the day and we had 17 miles done before lunch. After lunch there was some awesome ridge walking with good views of Lake Tahoe to the east.

We're camping near the top of Squaw Valley ski area. It's cold and windy up here, but it keeps the mosquitoes away.

I was reading some of my journal entries from the first couple weeks of the hike. It's weird because it feels like it all just happened yesterday, but at the same time it seems like so long ago. I'm making so many new vivid memories in such a short time out here that I think it's distorting my perception of time.

Day 70 - Buzz Buzz

Day 70 - Wednesday, July 4
South Lake Tahoe (1,092.9) to Phipps Creek (1,114.6)
Miles today - 21.7

Fairway, Macho, and I had breakfast at McDonald's and got a ride to the trail at 9 am. We're hiking through the Desolation Wilderness around the west side of Lake Tahoe. There were only a couple views of Lake Tahoe, but we did pass a lot of smaller lakes.



It's a beautiful area. We saw some rangers and I was asked to show my permit for the first time.



Macho and I are camping in an area with the worst mosquitoes yet. With my jacket, pants, and head net on and with bug spray on my hands they have a hard time biting me. It was amazing to see how many were on me though. There must have been dozens of them on my pants at one time. Made it easy to kill a handful in one slap. I ate dinner in my tent and called it a night.

Day 69 - Stressful Zero in Tahoe

Day 69 - Tuesday, July 3
South Lake Tahoe (1,092.9)
Miles today - 0

Days in town are supposed to be relaxing, but today was really stressful. After breakfast I went to the grocery store to buy 15 days worth of food. There were so many people there. The whole town is really busy because of the holiday tomorrow. I took all my food over to the post office, sorted it all on the floor, and packed up a box to send a couple hundred miles up the trail. I also sent my bear can home since I'm not required to carry it anymore. That's 2 1/2 pounds out of my pack!

Then I had to go to Staples for UPS shipping to send another package of food up the trail. The clerk there took forever and it wasn't until almost 3 pm that I was done my chores. Half the day was gone just like that.

Later in the afternoon Macho and I took the bus a few miles down the road to Stateline, Nevada. We hit up the buffet at Harrah's Casino. It was decent food and I definitely got my money's worth.



Above: Lake Tahoe from the 18th floor of Harrah's.

Then we went to see the movie Prometheus. It was some much needed entertainment.

This place will be crazy tomorrow and I can't wait to get out of here.

Day 68 - South Lake Tahoe

Day 68 - Monday, July 2
Upper Truckee River (1,082.3) to South Lake Tahoe (1,092.9)
Miles today - 10.6

The mozzies were bad this morning so we hiked quickly to Hwy 50 where we got a lucky hitch to South Tahoe after waiting only two minutes. We were in town in time for breakfast and I got a four egg omelette with Swiss cheese, onion, tomato, bacon, and spinach. Macho Taco and I are staying at yet another Motel 6.



Above: There was a ton of traffic in town, probably because of July 4th in a couple days. It made it hard to get around on foot.

After being on the verge on quitting just a few days ago, I've decided to keep going. I've been dreaming about this trail for too long and I've come too far to give up. I know I would regret it for the rest of my life. I just need to focus on short term goals instead of thinking about Canada and being overwhelmed by how far I have left to go. One day at a time.

Day 67 - Carson Pass Magic

Day 67 - Sunday, July 1
Eagle Creek (1,055) to Upper Truckee River (1,082.3)
Miles today - 27.3

It was another fun day of hiking. I think this section from Sonora Pass to Lake Tahoe over the last few days has been my favorite so far.



It doesn't have the grandeur of the High Sierra, but it has a different kind of beauty. It's a lot more colorful and diverse.



Plus the trail is a lot more mellow so I can enjoy the scenery without having to worry about tripping over rocks with every step. I think most importantly is that I'm with a group again.



There was some more trail magic today. The information center at Carson Pass had fruit and other snacks for hikers.



There were about 130 people that had signed the register before us. At Ziggy and the Bear's 800 miles ago I was #288, so we've been making good time and have definitely moved in front of the herd. It would be interesting to find out exactly how many people are still on he trail and how many have dropped out.

There's seven of us camping together in a meadow. Bronco, Houdini, Macho Taco, Fairway, Ruby Locks, a redhead from New Zealand, and Calf from Germany, who has the biggest calves I've ever seen. The mosquitoes are out in full force. Somehow it's not as bad when everyone is suffering together.

Day 66 - Turning Point

Day 66 - Saturday, June 30
Boulder Creek (1,032.4) to Eagle Creek (1,055)
Miles today - 22.6

Macho Taco and I left camp around 6:45 am and hiked together the entire day. I enjoyed the company and the miles flew by. The scenery was nice too.



The landscape seemed to change around every corner and for the first time in a while I didn't feel as if I was only hiking to reach a destination.



In the morning we passed a woman going the other direction who told us there was trail magic about 15 miles ahead, so we were looking forward to it all day. When we got there it didn't disappoint. They started us off with a huge plate of fruit - a peach, berries, cantaloupe, and watermelon. Then that was followed up with a burger and baked beans. And of course there were cold drinks. After a second plate of fruit I was so full I had to turn down a hot dog.



It was hard to get up and leave, but five minutes down the trail was more trail magic! We only stopped briefly at this one, but the brownie and chocolate milk were delicious.

I'm camped with Macho Taco, Bronco, Houdini, and Fairway in a cool spot near a lot of interesting rock formations. Today was one of the better days I've had on the trail and makes me think I should keep going, but I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet.