Thursday, May 31, 2012

Day 36 - Zero in Mojave

Day 36 - Thursday, May 31
Mojave (558.3)
Miles today - 0

I met Yankee Son, Hallmark, and Just Retired for breakfast. We all got the pancake special, which came with two pancakes, two eggs, two pieces of bacon, and two sausages, all for less than $5!

After breakfast Fairway and I went to the grocery store for two weeks worth of food - one for this next section, and the other to ship ahead to the town of Independence, where we'll be in a couple weeks. After walking a mile to the post office, packaging and mailing our food, going to lunch, and walking a mile back, the day was already mostly over, so I didn't get as much time to relax as I would have liked.

I went back to the Mexican place for dinner with Just Retired, Brother Man (now known as Macho Taco for his obsession with Del Taco), and his brother Brett, who left the trail a few weeks ago with a leg injury but is going to start up again from here.

We're all getting taxi rides back to the trail tomorrow at 5 am. As much as I like hanging out in town, I can't wait to get out of this one. It's 150 miles to my next resupply and I'll be carrying seven days of food. It'll be the longest I've ever gone between resupplies and I'm worried about the weight of my pack the first couple days, especially since I'll also have to carry four to five liters of water at times. This will be a difficult week. Good thing I'm carrying lots of ibuprofen.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Day 35 - Mojave

Day 35 - Wednesday, May 30
Tylerhorse Canyon (541.4) to Mojave (558.3)
Miles today - 16.9

Today we hiked through a burn area and then another wind farm.



This one is massive and must have thousands of turbines.



It was kind of boring and my feet were killing me, so I was glad when we got to the road and found a ride into town.

Mojave is a pretty bad town. It's real hot during the day, and then super windy at night. It sounds like the motel is going to blow down. I'm rooming with Fairway, Robin Hood, and Tortuga (Spanish for turtle) aka Joel. Robin and Joel are friends from Portland. I've seen them almost every day for several weeks. As crappy as this town is, the Mexican restaurant was really good. I may have to go back tomorrow.

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Day 34 - Ready, Set, Go

Day 34 - Tuesday, May 29
Hikertown (518.4) to Tylerhorse Canyon (541.4)
Miles today - 23

We were all on the trail around 3 am to start our trek across the Mojave. We followed the LA aqueduct for a long time, and actually walked right on top of it at times. After the sun came up it got pretty hot real quickly. The only vegetation were Joshua trees and small shrubs.



Then we passed through a wind farm with hundreds of giant turbines. They're so much bigger than they look when driving by them on a highway.



The desert seemed to go on forever. Everything is so much further away than it looks and it feels like you're not getting anywhere because the views are exactly the same for hours. It was like walking on a treadmill.

The real excitement of the day happened after we got to camp (23 miles by 1 pm). There's a really steep hill several hundred feet high right next to our camp. It's probably greater than a 45 degree angle all the way to the top. There's no trail, just loose dirt and rocks.



(Above: the hill is much higher than it looks in the picture.)

Somebody joked about buying a 12 pack of beer for whoever could climb up there in less than 15 minutes. That turned into Bronco and Iceman (who we caught up to today) each offering up $50. It was hard to pass up that kind of money, so Fairway, Robin Hood, and I took on the challenge, with the winner getting $100. Fairway went out of the gate too fast and dropped out in the first 20 seconds. Robin Hood and I continued on, taking different routes, and we hit the top at virtually the same time. We got up there in just 8 and a half minutes and we agreed to split the money. Everyone down below was thoroughly entertained. Getting back down was the hard part. It would have been pretty embarrassing to have my hike ended by a fall while doing a challenge like this, so it's probably not one of the smartest things I've ever done. But now I have $50 to spend in town!

It's 7:30 and we're all in bed already. I'm cowboy camping because it's really windy and I don't want to deal with my tent flapping or blowing over again. I hope the bugs, snakes, scorpions, and other creepy crawlies stay away.

Monday, May 28, 2012

Day 33 - 500

Day 33 - Monday, May 28
Water tank (496.5) to Hikertown (518.4)
Miles today - 21.9

The wind was strong last night and blew my tent over. I got it staked down well after that, but it was flapping around all night and I'm not sure I got even two hours of sleep. I had no energy this morning and also had a bit of a stomach bug, so I was really slow and hiked alone well behind the rest of the group. I did cross the 500 mile mark though, so the morning wasn't all bad.



I did eventually regain my strength and caught up to everyone. We had some awesome trail magic when we ran into a group of about 40 Korean seniors. They cheered and then made a tunnel with their arms for us to walk through.



Then they passed out huge chunks of watermelon, apples, water, snacks, and candy. They said they're out here twice a month, so we were lucky to run into them.



We're staying at Hikertown tonight, a hostel on the edge of the Mojave Desert.


It's a really strange place. I'm sleeping in a white shed with just a sofa and a couple tables inside. No bed or electricity.



I did get a shower and cooked dinner in the communal living area, so it was worth the $10. I plan on hiking out of here at 3 am to get across the Mojave before it gets real hot.

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Day 32 - Afternoon Slowdown

Day 32 - Sunday, May 27
Casa de Luna (478.6) to water tank (496.5)
Miles today - 17.9

We had pancakes and coffee at the Anderson's before getting dropped off at the trail at 8:00. It was a lot warmer today than yesterday, but still pretty pleasant.



The hiking wasn't very difficult, but we all seemed pretty tired in the afternoon and ready to be done for the day. Except for Iceman who decided to do another seven or eight miles after everyone else stopped. Bronco isn't with us either. He didn't go to the Anderson's yesterday and we didn't see him today. I'm sure we'll catch them in Mojave in a few days, if not before then.



(Above: These pine cones are bigger than my head!)

So close to hitting 500. It will have to wait until tomorrow. I did surpass the official Colorado Trail mileage though (485), so now this is my longest hike.

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Day 31 - Casa de Luna

Day 31 - Saturday, May 26
Agua Dulce (454.9) to Casa de Luna (478.6)
Miles today - 23.7

Our group hiked out of Agua Dulce at 5 am this morning. It was cold and overcast all day, which was perfect for hiking. We're lucky because it's usually really hot here. We stopped for lunch at a soda cache put out by Joe and Terri Anderson and we were all shivering.



(Above: from left to right - Hallmark, Yankee Son, Iceman, Bronco, Just Retired, Brother Man, and Fairway next to the skeleton)

The only way to stay warm was to keep moving. We're all in pretty good shape now and making miles quickly. We got 24 done by 3 pm, and then got a ride over to the Anderson's house, aka Casa de Luna, which is notorious for its party atmosphere. There are over 50 people here. We grilled burgers and hot dogs and there was plenty of beer, but otherwise not as crazy as we expected. No chocolate syrup wrestling tonight. Everybody is camped in the huge backyard where there are tons of tent sites in a labyrinth of manzanita trees.



The PCT is so much more than just hiking the trail. Some people are hesitant to come to the Anderson's because of its reputation for having wild parties, but it's all part of the trail culture and I'm glad I got to experience it.

Friday, May 25, 2012

Day 30 - Zero at the Saufleys

Day 30 - Friday, May 25
Agua Dulce (454.9)
Miles today - 0

I woke up this morning with rain coming through the mesh walls of our tent and hitting my sleeping bag. It's the first rain I've seen since Day 1 nearly a month ago. It only lasted a few minutes, then it was cold and really windy for most of the day.



A ton of hikers came in here today, including Wampus Cat, Zen, iPod, Magellan, and Laura. I hadn't seen them since Big Bear, almost 200 miles ago.

I got my grocery shopping done and Yankee Son picked up a pair of insoles for me on his trip to REI last night, so I'm all ready to go again. I played some backgammon and chess with Iceman and iPod. iPod trounced me at chess. I had my first ever In 'N Out burger. I've heard about the place for years. It was pretty good, but I don't think it lives up to the hype.

Toenail showed up here right as I was about to go to bed. I'm not sure where exactly he is on the trail or how he got here. He's talking about skipping up to Kennedy Meadows in a week or two. I hadn't seen him since Idyllwild so it was quite a surprise to see him here.

Thanks again to the Saufleys for their generosity and hospitality.



Above: table full of hungry hikers.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Day 29 - Agua Dulce

Day 29 - Thursday, May 24
KOA Campground (444.2) to Agua Dulce (454.9)
Miles today - 10.7

Fairway, Matt, and I hit the trail at 3:30 am and made it to Agua Dulce at 7. We passed Vasquez Rocks, which had some really cool rock formations.



Russ got to town right after us and we all had breakfast together at the Sweetwater Cafe. The food was good, but the waitress had no idea what she was doing. My toast and chocolate milk didn't come out until after I was already done everything else. She lost Fairway's order completely and he had to reorder after waiting about an hour.

After breakfast we made our way over to the Saufley's, who have been hosting hikers for 16 years. This place is incredible. They do laundry for everyone. There are a bunch of tents in the yard with cots for sleeping, and a trailer with a kitchen and shower. There are even bikes for riding into town.


Mouse, who I met on the Colorado Trail last year, was here today briefly. He started at the Mexican border about 14 days ago and has been doing 35-40 miles per day. He's trying to finish the whole trail in 90 days.

For dinner I rode over to Big Mouth Pizza and got a salad and spaghetti. The portions were ridiculously huge and probably could have fed a whole family. I managed to eat most of it.

I'm spending all day here tomorrow and will hike out on Saturday.

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Day 28 - Slowed By Chafe

Day 28 - Wednesday, May 23
Messenger Flat Campground (430.6) to KOA Campground (444.2)
Miles today - 13.6

More poodle dog detour again today. Even after the detour there was a lot of it on the trail to dodge. Hopefully that'll be the last of it the rest of the way.



I was chafing again today and couldn't keep up with everyone else, so I hiked alone most of the day. I still made it to the KOA Campground early in the afternoon, so I had a lot of time to relax and get off my feet. Brother Man and Iceman hiked on a few extra miles. The rest of us are staying here tonight. We ordered a bunch of pizzas for dinner. Fairway, Matt, and I will be heading out real early tomorrow to try to get to town in the morning.



This section has been kind of tedious with all the detours and poodle dog, so it's good to almost be done with it. We've been heading west around the LA area for the last 200 miles. Now we'll finally be going north again, so it feels like more progress will be made towards Canada. The terrain ahead looks pretty brown, and it's sure to be really hot as we get closer to the Mojave Desert.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Day 27 - Poodle Dog, Chafing, and a Skunk

Day 27 - Tuesday, May 22
Camp Glenwood (400.9) to Messenger Flat Campground (430.6)
Miles today - 29.7

Today was one of those days that felt like it would never end. I started out strong as we hiked the first 10 or 11 miles without stopping, but then I started chafing pretty bad in the groin area. I had to walk the rest of the day with my hand over that area to keep it from rubbing more. Everybody teased me about it, but it was the only relief from the burning, so I didn't care.



This whole area was burned in a huge forest fire a few years ago and there is poodle dog bush all over the place. It's so bad that we had to take detours on roads to avoid the stuff.



We took a four hour break at the Mill Creek Ranger Station where there was water and shade. To our surprise, Fairway, Bronco, Yankee Son, Hallmark, and Just Retired caught up to us there. Only Fairway decided to continue on with us though, while the others were done for the day. We left the ranger station at 6 and had a 10 mile road walk up Mount Gleason, a detour around a section of trail with too much poodle dog bush to safely get through. We ended up walking into the darkness and had views of the LA area all lit up in the distance. As we were nearing the campground we ran into a skunk walking down the road straight at us. We all took off running and the skunk kept coming, completely unafraid of us. Finally it went off the road and allowed us to pass. It wasn't until after 10 that we made it to camp, ending a near 30 mile day. I'm exhausted!




Monday, May 21, 2012

Day 26 - Appetite

Day 26 - Monday, May 21
Little Jimmy Campground (384) to Camp Glenwood (400.9)
Miles today - 16.9 + 0.9 = 17.8

There were a lot of ups and downs today, so it was more tiring than the mileage indicates. At least my feet feel a bit better today. I was worried about them yesterday.



We had to detour around part of the PCT which has been closed because of an endangered species of frog. The official detour adds 15 extra miles. The old detour only adds 0.9 mile, but was rerouted because of a "dangerous" 2.7 mile road walk. It was an easy decision to take the shorter route. We only saw one car and two motorcycles on the road. Real dangerous, huh.



My hiker appetite kicked in today I think. I felt hungry all day, and even after dinner I wanted to keep eating. I hope I have enough food left to satisfy my hunger and get me to town in a few days.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Day 25 - Mt Baden-Powell

Day 25 - Sunday, May 20
Wrightwood (369.5) to Little Jimmy Campground (384)
Miles today - 14.5

Iceman, Brother Man, and I headed back to the trail after breakfast while everyone else decided to stay in town another day. The group is split up for now, but we plan to meet up again in Agua Dulce in about five days.



Every year during the Rose Bowl Brent Musberger points out the beautiful San Gabriel Mountains in the background. That's where we're hiking now. Today we climbed to the summit of Mt Baden-Powell at 9,300 feet.



It was probably the hardest climb on the trail so far, gaining 3,000 feet in just four miles. There were a lot of day hikers on the trail. They're easily identified by the smell of soap and deodorant.

From the summit we could barely see the LA skyline poking up through the smog. Couldn't see the ocean though. We met Heather and her 8 year old daughter, Monkey. If they make it all the way to Canada Monkey would be the youngest person to thruhike the PCT.



My feet are really hurting. I think maybe I need a new pair of insoles. I probably have about 900 miles on this pair. Hopefully I can get the ones I need in Agua Dulce. I might be able to get to an REI from there.



Above: this tree is supposedly 1,500 years old.

We're camped in another active bear area. This time we hung our food.

Happy Birthday Mom!

Saturday, May 19, 2012

Day 24 - History in Wrightwood

Day 24 - Saturday, May 19
Guffy Campground (364.5) to Wrightwood (369.5)
Miles today - 5

Short hike to Hwy 2. There was hardly any traffic. Only two or three cars went by in 30 minutes but we got picked up.



I think my hitchhiking sign paid off.



We got to Wrightwood early enough for breakfast. I like Wrightwood way better than Big Bear. It's nice and compact and a short walk to everything. We're all staying at the Pines Motel. I'm sharing a room with Fairway, Iceman, and Brother Man again. The room is really small for four people, but it was super cheap.



(Above: my laundry attire)

After dinner a bunch of us went to a Little League game, which happened to be the first ever night game in Wrightwood. The Cubs played the Angels and everyone cheered for the Cubs for me, and they won.



Now to introduce the group I've been traveling with:

Fairway is from Atlanta and worked in the golf and turf business. He's a Georgia grad and doesn't like to buy Gatorade since it supports the Florida Gators. He's really competitive and always has to be the first person to the top of a climb.

Iceman is a computer engineer from the bay area. He got his trail name in the San Jacintos when the group he was with ran out of water and he saved he day by finding a patch of snow.

Brother Man is an engineer from Phoenix. His brother, Glitter Boy, was hiking the trail with him but had to go home due to injury. Brother Man is going on a trek in Nepal right after the PCT.

Bronco, AKA Jim, is from southern Oregon and was in the Navy during the Gulf War. He's a big guy with legs like tree trunks and he can eat an impressive amount of food.

Then there's Yankee Son and Hallmark. They met while working for Patagonia in San Francisco and are recently married. Hallmark got her name because she carries thank you cards for everyone to sign and she gives them to trail angels. Yankee Son got his name from a neighbor in North Carolina who called him his Yankee son since he was from the north (PA). The neighbor passed away and he's using the name Yankee Son on the PCT as a tribute.

I'm really enjoying getting to know everyone. It's been a totally different experience so far than the one I had on the Colorado Trail, where I was alone 90% of the time.

Friday, May 18, 2012

Day 23 - Trail Legs

Day 23 - Friday, May 18
Cajon Pass (342.1) to Guffy Campground (364.5)
Miles today - 22.4

We left the hotel at 5:00 am and had perfect hiking weather for a few hours. There was a layer of fog that kept things nice and cool.






By the time the sun was shining we were up in the mountains out of the desert. I felt great for most of the day and flew up the 5,000 foot climb, even while carrying five liters of water (10 or 11 lbs). I think I'm starting to get my trail legs. It was a lot of miles again though and my feet were hurting when we got to camp.



Supposedly bears are a problem at this campground, but I don't think anyone is hanging their food. Hopefully the bears stay away tonight.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Day 22 - McDonalds

Day 22 - Thursday, May 17
Grass Valley Creek (318) to Cajon Pass (342.1)
Miles today - 24.1

My allergies are getting pretty bad. I was sneezing a lot last night and all day today. I think maybe it's all of the dust in the desert.

It was another hot day as soon as the sun came up. We came to some trail magic in the morning, a cooler of fresh fruit. I had a juicy wedge of pineapple which was really refreshing. We stopped for a break at Silverwood Lake at 10:00 am and that was pretty much the last good shade for the day.



It was another long day since we decided to push for Cajon Pass at Interstate 15 where there's a McDonald's and a hotel.

I wasn't stopping enough to eat and I really struggled in the afternoon.



I finally made it to McDonald's around 4:00 and got a Big Mac and fries and about four or five refills of Coke.



Then a few hours later I had a meatball sub from Subway. I'm sharing a room at the Best Western with Fairway, Brother Man, and Iceman. Only $15 per person and it's actually a nice room. So worth it just for the shower (see my dirt tan below).



I called home and my mom asked if I've had any rain, so I guess I should give a weather update. The only rain I've had was on the very first day. It's been sunny every day since. I'll be surprised if I see anymore rain in southern California.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Day 21 - Autopilot

Day 21 - Wednesday, May 16
Holcomb Creek (292) to Grass Valley Creek (318)
Miles today - 26

There was some kind of animal wandering near our camp at 4:30 this morning. We all heard it and agree it sounded like a crying baby bear. If so, the mother probably wasn't very far away.

We got a lot of miles done quickly again today as the trail was mostly downhill as it descended into another canyon.






By midday it was really hot and we found a perfect spot for a break under some trees and next to a cold stream. It was so nice that every other hiker stopped there as well, so it got a little crowded. We stayed for three hours before moving on in the heat.

In the afternoon we passed a popular hot spring, but unfortunately there are too many naked old men there so we didn't consider stopping. The trail was disappointing as we hiked through the rest of the canyon. There was a lot of graffiti on the canyon walls and signs of overuse. We didn't want to camp in this area, so we decided to cook dinner and then hike on until we found somewhere more desirable. We were all pretty irritated and ready to get out of there.



After dinner I was given the trail name Autopilot as I set a fast pace to find a place to sleep before dark. Somehow I find all this energy at the end of long days. I just get in a zone and it's like I'm sleepwalking, like the other day when I got up at 2 am and kept going all day.



We ended up hiking into the dark with our headlamps on before finding a good camp.

Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Day 20 - Big Miles and Sore Feet

Day 20 - Tuesday, May 15
Big Bear City (265.3) to Holcomb Creek (292)
Miles today - 26.7

A group of us got a taxi ride back to the trail and we were hiking by 7:00 am. It was easy walking most of the day and we made quick miles. There were some good views down into the Big Bear area where we spent the last two days in town.



Even with a late start this morning, we did 20 miles by 2:00, which was our original destination for the day. My feet were really hurting and I would have been happy to stay there, but everyone wanted to go on at least a couple more hours. After a long break my feet felt better and I decided to push on with the group.



We hiked through a large burn area and then down into a canyon, where we eventually found a suitable place to camp along the creek, and near a bees nest. I'm here with Brother Man, Yankee Son, and Hallmark. Just Retired, a 66 year old who just retired from the military, came in a while after us. There are a bunch of others camped nearby.




Monday, May 14, 2012

Day 19 - Zero in Big Bear

Day 19 - Monday, May 14
Big Bear City (265.3)
Miles today - 0

The only important thing I had to do today was buy groceries. Brother Man and I took the bus over to the supermarket but then ended up walking nearly two miles back to the motel instead of waiting for the next bus. I can't say I'm a fan of Big Bear. It's too spread out to easily get where you need to go on foot, and the bus system seems inconvenient and doesn't run frequently enough. The main road is really busy and has no sidewalks, so it's not very pleasant walking. I won't miss this place at all.



On the other hand, I have actually had a really fun time in town hanging out with the other hikers. We've gotten a lot closer over the last week and I hope we're able to stick together for a while.

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Day 18 - Big Bear

Day 18 - Sunday, May 13
Arrastre Trail Camp (255.9) to Big Bear City (265.3)
Miles today - 9.4

I slept in this morning (I guess 6 am is sleeping in after getting up at 2 the last couple days). It was an easy hike to Hwy 18 and I got a ride into Big Bear City by 10:30 with Brother Man.



I ran into Spencer at the Motel 6 and we'll be sharing a room the next two nights. Spencer is going by the trail name Fairway because he worked at a golf course in Atlanta.

Most of the hikers in our group are staying here at the motel, and we spent most of the day just relaxing in the courtyard. Fairway and I took on Yankee Son and Hallmark in a game of Spades while we waited for our laundry.



Then a bunch of us ordered some pizza from Little Caesars and had sort of a party here until the manager came out around 9:50 and told us we had to quiet down. I don't have many errands to run tomorrow, so it should be another relaxing day.

Happy Mothers Day!